mortgages for people with bad credit.

Building a Better Credit Report
If you've ever applied for a credit card, a personal loan, or insurance, there's a file about you. This file is known as your credit report. It is chock full of information on where you live, how you pay your bills, and whether you've been sued, arrested, or filed for bankruptcy. Consumer reporting companies sell the information in your report to creditors, insurers, employers, and other businesses with a legitimate need for it. They use the information to evaluate your applications for credit, insurance, employment, or a lease.

Having a good credit report means it will be easier for you to get loans and lower interest rates. Lower interest rates usually translate into smaller monthly payments.

Nevertheless, newspapers, radio, TV, and the Internet are filled with ads for companies and services that promise to erase accurate negative information in your credit report in exchange for a fee. The scam artists who run these ads not only don't deliver — they can't deliver. Only time, a deliberate effort, and a plan to repay your bills will improve your credit as it's detailed in your credit report.

The Federal Trade Commission (FTC), the nation's consumer protection agency, has written this booklet to help explain how to build a better credit report.

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The Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA) promotes the accuracy, fairness, and privacy of information in the files of the nation's consumer reporting companies. The FTC enforces the FCRA with respect to consumer reporting companies. Recent amendments to the FCRA expand consumer rights and place additional requirements on consumer reporting companies. Businesses that provide information about consumers to consumer reporting companies and businesses that use credit reports also have new responsibilities under the law.

Here are some questions consumers have asked the FTC about consumer reports and consumer reporting companies, and the answers.

Q. Do I have a right to know what's in my report?
A. You have the right to know what's in your report, but you have to ask for the information. The consumer reporting company must tell you everything in your report, and give you a list of everyone who has requested your report within the past year - or the past two years if the requests were related to employment.

Q. What type of information do consumer reporting companies collect and sell?
A. Consumer reporting companies collect and sell four basic types of information:

Identification and employment information: Your name, birth date, Social Security number, employer, and spouse's name are noted routinely. The consumer reporting company also may provide information about your employment history, home ownership, income, and previous address, if a creditor asks.

Payment history: Your accounts with different creditors are listed, showing how much credit has been extended and whether you've paid on time. Related events, such as the referral of an overdue account to a collection agency, also may be noted.

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Inquiries: Consumer reporting companies must maintain a record of all creditors who have asked for your credit history within the past year, and a record of individuals or businesses that have asked for your credit history for employment purposes for the past two years.

Public record information: Events that are a matter of public record, such as bankruptcies, foreclosures, or tax liens, may appear in your report.

Q. Is there a charge for my report?
A. Under the Free File Disclosure Rule of the Fair and Accurate Credit Transactions Act (FACT Act), each of the nationwide consumer reporting companies — Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion — is required to provide you with a free copy of your credit report once every 12 months, if you ask for it.

These consumer reporting companies are phasing in free reports geographically through September 1, 2005. After that, free reports will be accessible to all Americans, regardless of where they live.

Free reports have been available to consumers in the Western states — Alaska, Arizona, California, Colorado, Hawaii, Idaho, Montana, Nevada, New Mexico, Oregon, Utah, Washington, and Wyoming — since December 1, 2004.

Consumers in the Midwestern states — Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska, North Dakota, Ohio, South Dakota, and Wisconsin — have been able to order free reports since March 1, 2005.

Consumers in the Southern states — Alabama, Arkansas, Florida, Georgia, Kentucky, Louisiana, Mississippi, Oklahoma, South Carolina, Tennessee, and Texas — can begin ordering their free reports June 1, 2005.

Consumers in the Eastern states — Connecticut, Delaware, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, North Carolina, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont, Virginia, and West Virginia — the District of Columbia, Puerto Rico, and all U.S. territories can begin ordering their free reports September 1, 2005.

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Q: How do I order my free report?
A: The three nationwide consumer reporting companies are using one website, one toll-free telephone number, and one mailing address for consumers to order their free annual report. To order, click on www.annualcreditreport.com, call 1-877-322-8228, or complete the Annual Credit Report Request Form and mail it to: Annual Credit Report Request Service, P.O. Box 105281, Atlanta, GA 30348-5281. The form is at the back of this brochure; or you can print it from ftc.gov/credit. Do not contact the three nationwide consumer reporting companies individually. You may order your free annual reports from each of the consumer reporting companies at the same time, or you can order from only one or two. The law allows you to order one free copy from each of the nationwide consumer reporting companies every 12 months.

Q: What information do I have to provide to get my free report?
A: You need to provide your name, address, Social Security number, and date of birth. If you have moved in the last two years, you may have to provide your previous address. To maintain the security of your file, each nationwide consumer reporting company may ask you for some information that only you would know, like the amount of your monthly mortgage payment. Each company may ask you for different information because the information each has in your file may come from different sources.

Still, www.annualcreditreport.com is the only authorized online source for your free annual credit report from the three nationwide consumer reporting companies. Neither the website nor the companies will call you first to ask for personal information or send you an email asking for personal information. If you get a phone call or an email — or see a pop-up ad — claiming it's from www.annualcreditreport.com (or any of the three nationwide consumer reporting companies), it's probably a scam. Don't reply or click on any link in the message. Instead, forward any email that claims to be from www.annualcreditreport.com (or any of the three consumer reporting companies) to spam@uce.gov, the FTC's database of deceptive spam.

Q: Are there other situations where I might be eligible for a free report?
A: Under federal law, you're entitled to a free report if a company takes adverse action against you, such as denying your application for credit, insurance, or employment, and you ask for your report within 60 days of receiving notice of the action. The notice will give you the name, address, and phone number of the consumer reporting company. You're also entitled to one free report a year if you're unemployed and plan to look for a job within 60 days; if you're on welfare; or if your report is inaccurate because of fraud, including identity theft. Otherwise, any of the three consumer reporting companies may charge you up to $9.50 for another copy of your report within a 12-month period.

Equifax
800-685-1111
www.equifax.com Experian
888-EXPERIAN (397-3742)
www.experian.com Trans Union
800-916-8800
www.transunion.com

Under state law, consumers in Colorado, Georgia, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, and Vermont already have free access to their credit reports.

Q. What is a credit score, and how does it affect my ability to get credit?
A: Credit scoring is a system creditors use to help determine whether to give you credit, and how much to charge you for it.

Information about you and your credit experiences, like your bill-paying history, the number and type of accounts you have, late payments, collection actions, outstanding debt, and the age of your accounts, is collected from your credit application and your credit report. Using a statistical formula, creditors compare this information to the credit performance of consumers with similar profiles. A credit scoring system awards points for each factor. A total number of points — a credit score — helps predict how creditworthy you are, that is, how likely it is that you will repay a loan and make the payments on time. Generally, consumers with good credit risks have higher credit scores.

You can get your credit score from the three nationwide consumer reporting companies, but you will have to pay a fee for it. Many other companies also offer credit scores for sale alone or as part of a package of products.

Under the FCRA, both the consumer reporting company and the information provider (the person, company, or organization that provides information about you to a consumer reporting company) are responsible for correcting inaccurate or incomplete information in your report. To take advantage of all your rights under the FCRA, contact the consumer reporting company and the information provider if you see inaccurate or incomplete information.

1. Tell the consumer reporting company, in writing, what information you think is inaccurate. Include copies (NOT originals) of documents that support your position. In addition to providing your complete name and address, your letter should clearly identify each item in your report that you dispute, state the facts and explain why you dispute the information, and request that the information be deleted or corrected. You may want to enclose a copy of your report with the items in question circled. Your letter may look something like the one on page 8. Send your letter by certified mail, return receipt requested, so you can document what the consumer reporting company received. Keep copies of your dispute letter and enclosures.

Consumer reporting companies must investigate the items in question — usually within 30 days — unless they consider your dispute frivolous. They also must forward all the relevant data you provide about the inaccuracy to the organization that provided the information. After the information provider receives notice of a dispute from the consumer reporting company, it must investigate, review the relevant information, and report the results back to the consumer reporting company. If the information provider finds the disputed information is inaccurate, it must notify all three nationwide consumer reporting companies so they can correct the information in your file.

When the investigation is complete, the consumer reporting company must give you the written results and a free copy of your report if the dispute results in a change. (This free report does not count as your annual free report under the FACT Act.) If an item is changed or deleted, the consumer reporting company cannot put the disputed information back in your file unless the information provider verifies that the information is, indeed, accurate and complete. The consumer reporting company also must send you written notice that includes the name, address, and phone number of the information provider.

If you request, the consumer reporting company must send notices of any correction to anyone who received your report in the past six months. A corrected copy of your report can be sent to anyone who received a copy during the past two years for employment purposes.

If an investigation doesn't resolve your dispute with the consumer reporting company, you can ask that a statement of the dispute be included in your file and in future reports. You also can ask the consumer reporting company to provide your statement to anyone who received a copy of your report in the recent past. Expect to pay a fee for this service.

2. Tell the creditor or other information provider, in writing, that you dispute an item. Be sure to include copies (NOT originals) of documents that support your position. Many providers specify an address for disputes. If the provider reports the item to a consumer reporting company, it must include a notice of your dispute. And if you are correct - that is, if the information is found to be inaccurate - the information provider may not report it again.

Should you Refinance?
With "everyone" talking about the historically low mortgage rates you are ready to decide if it "pays" to refinance. The "rule of thumb" supplied by mortgage companies is that if you can reduce your interest rate by 1% it is usually profitable. But there is more to it than that. Like how long are you planning on staying in the house?

Realistically, the first thing you need to determine is what rates do you qualify for and what are the other costs (like points and closing costs). When refinancing it is common to roll the additional costs and fees back into the mortgage so there are no "out of pocket" costs. But this allows the Bank or other mortgage holder to charge you interest on these fees. At the current low interest rates and if you choose a short time period for your mortgage the additional interest will be relatively small.

But even at these low rates, if you have a 30 year mortgage, interest will end up doubling the amount of fees over the 30 year life of the loan. Assume you took a 30 year, $115,000 First mortgage on a house 5 years ago. The interest rate at the time was 7.5% and your principal and interest payment was $765.10 per month. (If $765.10 sounds low to you, remember your "actual payment" may also include mortgage insurance, taxes and home owners insurance.) After paying $765.10 per month or $9181.20/year for 5 years you have spent a total of $45,906. Plus, you still owe about $108,000 on your $115,000 mortgage and you still have 25 more years to go! Not much of your payment is going toward principal! So the sooner you can get out from under the better.

Recently interest rates have fallen to around 5% so you consider refinancing. Assuming Closing Costs, fees and expenses are about $3,000. you will have to "borrow" $111,000. to pay off your $108,000. loan (or come up with the $3,000.) from savings. If you decide to refinance the additional costs for another 30 years... your loan amount would be $111,000. and you would be almost back to where you started 5 years ago... but your payment would drop to $595.87 for a monthly savings of $169.23.

Although it might be nice to have an additional $169.23 to spend each month, the question is what will you do with the money? Go out to eat more, buy more toys? Invest it in your retirement fund? Or just "blow it"? If you just "blow it"... all you have accomplished is that you are in debt to the bank for an additional 5 years. Not a happy prospect...

What if you set the mortgage term to 25 years? In that case, your payment would be $648.89 saving you $116.21 per month. So for an additional $53.02 per month your mortgage term remained the same. Personally, I think that is a better solution. At least you aren't pushing your retirement out an additional 5 years while you continue paying your mortgage. Remember, the original question was... Is it worth it to refinance and pay the additional $3000. or just keep paying on the old mortgage? Keep in mind, as soon as you sign the papers the equity you have in your house drops by $3000! Assuming you chose the 25 year mortgage (with the $116.21/mo savings) it will take you 25.8 months to break even ($3000/$116.21) because at that point you will have saved the $3000. it cost you to refinance. So if you intend to stay in your house 3 or more years it would pay for you to refinance.

But what if you took it one step further? What if you kept your payment the same and reduced the term of your mortgage as far as possible? A $111,000 mortgage at 5% with a payment of about $765 would require a term of 223 months or about 18.5 years. Assuming you could get an 18.5 year mortgage and you intended to stay in your house that long, this would be an excellent move! You have drastically reduced the amount of money you will pay the bank over the life of the mortgage and you are free and clear 6.5 years earlier! Even if you move sooner, your equity will be building faster so you will have more money when you sell.

Unfortunately, lenders do not usually let you choose an odd term length like 18.5 years , so you would have to choose either a 20 year term with a payment of $732.55 which would still save you about $30/month but also knock 5 years off your loan (and build equity somewhat faster). Or you could choose a 15 year term with a payment of $877.78 which would actually cost you about $110/month more than what you are currently paying but would knock a full 10 years off your mortgage. If your income has risen since you got your initial mortgage and you could swing it... it would be money well spent. For those with higher incomes who have difficulty saving, this is a great idea because it actually forces you to save a little bit more each month and once you get used to it, you won't even miss it.

Perhaps you can remove the mortgage insurance off your mortgage. On the original loan, you might have to pay it for the first 10 years, so you would still have to pay it for 5 more years. But... if you have made improvements to the home... or property values have increased dramatically in your neighborhood... you might be able to get the new loan without the mortgage insurance. If you can, you will save an additional $100/month! With that savings you can move to the 15 year mortgage without mortgage insurance for the same amount that you are currently paying for a 30 year mortgage with mortgage insurance. Not bad eh? Whack 15 years off your mortgage just like that!

Another way to reduce the monthly payment is to reduce the amount you borrow. If you could come up with the additional $3000 in closing costs from savings, your monthly payment on a 15 year mortgage would drop from $877.78 to $854.06 .. or only about $89. per month more than what you are currently paying. Is it worth $89/month to knock another 5 years off your mortgage? That depends on your personal circumstances! If your budget is already stretched to the limit, or it will put you at risk if you lose your job, NO. But if you can find a way to come up with $3.00 per day, (perhaps by giving up cigarettes, or skipping a trip to the vending machine or to McDonalds) it will save you thousands over the life of your mortgage!